Information from ASPCA
As a rule of thumb, a dog’s nails should be trimmed when they touch the ground. For leisurely living dogs, that might
mean weekly pedicures, while urban pooches who stalk rough city sidewalks might never need their nails cut at all
(except their dewclaws, if they’ve got ‘em).
Gear
There are two basic styles of nail clippers for dogs: a scissors type and a guillotine type. They work equally well, so
choose the design you’re most comfortable with. Be sure to buy the correct size for your dog, too—for example, you don’
t want to use huge clippers on a tiny toy dog.
If your dog finds both kinds of clippers intolerable, the alternative is to use a nail grinder, an electric tool that sands
nails down. These offer control, but take more time than clippers, and some people (and dogs) find the sounds and
vibrations they produce unpleasant.
Slow Hands
It’s a good idea to get your dog used to having her feet touched before
you attempt a nail trim—ideally, this should start when she’s a pup. If
you have a touchy pooch, it might take a few weeks of regular paw
massaging before she’s comfortable enough with the sensations to
allow you to work with her nails. If it’s your first go at this, just clip one
or two nails a day and immediately follow up with treats or a session of
her favorite game.
Pre-Snip Preparations
Before beginning a pup pedicure, tire your dog out with some vigorous
exercise and enlist an assistant to help you hold her. One you’ve assembled your gear—your cutting device of choice,
a bunch of treats and some styptic powder in case of accidents (more on that later)—you’re ready to begin.
Just a Trim, Please
Take your dog’s toe and hold it firmly, but gently. Lavishing her with calm praise and tasty little nibbles—and holding
your trimmer so that you’re cutting the nail from top to bottom, not side to side—insert a very small length of nail
through the trimmer’s opening. Avoid nipping the quick, which is the pink area within each nail that contains nerves and
blood vessels. Don’t trim at a blunt angle—try to maintain the existing curvature of the nail. Cut a little bit of nail with
each pass until you can see the beginning of a circle—still nail-colored—appear on the cut surface. The circle indicates
that you are nearing the quick, so it’s time to stop that nail and move on to the next.
Accidents Can Happen
If you do hit the quick, your dog will probably yelp and might even struggle. This is a good time to end the session—but
not before applying styptic powder to the bleeding nail tip. Apply a little bit of pressure as you press the powder into the
wound to make sure it sticks. If bleeding continues for more than a few minutes, please alert your veterinarian, who can
check your dog for clotting disorders.
Scaredy Pups
Some dogs show fearful or aggressive behavior when faced with nail trimming. Watch carefully for signs of distress such
as panting, drooling, trembling, whining, freezing, cowering, tail-tucking, growling, snarling or snapping. Even with the
most patient and gradual of introductions, there are dogs who seem unable to get over their terror. If your dog falls into
this category, do not force him to submit. See if his veterinarian or a professional groomer has better luck getting the
job done.
As a rule of thumb, a dog’s nails should be trimmed when they touch the ground. For leisurely living dogs, that might
mean weekly pedicures, while urban pooches who stalk rough city sidewalks might never need their nails cut at all
(except their dewclaws, if they’ve got ‘em).
Gear
There are two basic styles of nail clippers for dogs: a scissors type and a guillotine type. They work equally well, so
choose the design you’re most comfortable with. Be sure to buy the correct size for your dog, too—for example, you don’
t want to use huge clippers on a tiny toy dog.
If your dog finds both kinds of clippers intolerable, the alternative is to use a nail grinder, an electric tool that sands
nails down. These offer control, but take more time than clippers, and some people (and dogs) find the sounds and
vibrations they produce unpleasant.
Slow Hands
It’s a good idea to get your dog used to having her feet touched before
you attempt a nail trim—ideally, this should start when she’s a pup. If
you have a touchy pooch, it might take a few weeks of regular paw
massaging before she’s comfortable enough with the sensations to
allow you to work with her nails. If it’s your first go at this, just clip one
or two nails a day and immediately follow up with treats or a session of
her favorite game.
Pre-Snip Preparations
Before beginning a pup pedicure, tire your dog out with some vigorous
exercise and enlist an assistant to help you hold her. One you’ve assembled your gear—your cutting device of choice,
a bunch of treats and some styptic powder in case of accidents (more on that later)—you’re ready to begin.
Just a Trim, Please
Take your dog’s toe and hold it firmly, but gently. Lavishing her with calm praise and tasty little nibbles—and holding
your trimmer so that you’re cutting the nail from top to bottom, not side to side—insert a very small length of nail
through the trimmer’s opening. Avoid nipping the quick, which is the pink area within each nail that contains nerves and
blood vessels. Don’t trim at a blunt angle—try to maintain the existing curvature of the nail. Cut a little bit of nail with
each pass until you can see the beginning of a circle—still nail-colored—appear on the cut surface. The circle indicates
that you are nearing the quick, so it’s time to stop that nail and move on to the next.
Accidents Can Happen
If you do hit the quick, your dog will probably yelp and might even struggle. This is a good time to end the session—but
not before applying styptic powder to the bleeding nail tip. Apply a little bit of pressure as you press the powder into the
wound to make sure it sticks. If bleeding continues for more than a few minutes, please alert your veterinarian, who can
check your dog for clotting disorders.
Scaredy Pups
Some dogs show fearful or aggressive behavior when faced with nail trimming. Watch carefully for signs of distress such
as panting, drooling, trembling, whining, freezing, cowering, tail-tucking, growling, snarling or snapping. Even with the
most patient and gradual of introductions, there are dogs who seem unable to get over their terror. If your dog falls into
this category, do not force him to submit. See if his veterinarian or a professional groomer has better luck getting the
job done.
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'Peticures' important for overall dog health